The Itinerary - Day 23 - Leaving Hong Kong & The End Of The Adventure.

Today we leave Hong Kong to fly back home.  It's been quite the adventure, eh!? 

We've travelled quite a distance to get here. 


And we've travelled quite a distance around China, Macau, and Hong Kong taking in all the sites and attractions. 


But we haven't see it all, though. Who knows?  Maybe some day.  

Postcript - Some very important tips and tricks that will make your trip more enjoyable!   




The Itinerary - Day 22 - Tour Of Hong Kong

We're almost at the end of our trip but we've still got a very interesting day ahead of us - a tour of Hong Kong.

In decades gone by, westerners' connection with the Orient was through the port city of Hong Kong.  For decades as British protectorates, Hong Kong and Singapore were the centres of trade in Asia.  As business became more global in the 1970s and 1980s, the importance of these two city-states grew to the extent that the word "largest" - as in largest transportation hub, largest financial institutions, etc - could be applied to them.  Hong Kong became the largest port for the trans-shipment of goods throughout the world.  Investment reached an all-time high in manufacturing and finance.  It very quickly became a place where East met West.

Today we're going to take a tour of Hong Kong and perhaps see a bit of how this all evolved.

Victoria Peak - A Panoramic View of Victoria Harbour

Victoria Peak (formally known as Mount Austin and locally as "The Peak") is a mountain in the western half of Hong Kong Island. With an altitude of 552 m (1,811 ft), it is the highest mountain on the island, but Tai Mo Shan is the highest point in all of Hong Kong.  While the summit is occupied by a radio telecommunications facility which is closed to the public, the surrounding area of public parks and high-value residential land is the area that is normally meant by the name "The Peak".  With over 7 million visitors a year, The Peak is a major Hong Kong tourist attraction offering panoramic views of Central, Victoria Harbour, Lamma Island and the surrounding islands
 
The view of Central, Kowloon and Victoria Harbours from Victoria Gap, near the top of Victoria Peak
As early as 19th century, The Peak attracted prominent European residents because of its panoramic view over the city and its temperate climate compared to the sub-tropical climate in the rest of Hong Kong.  The sixth Governor of Hong Kong, Sir Richard MacDonnell had a summer residence built on the Peak in 1868.  Those that built houses named them whimsically, with names such as The Eyrie, and the Austin Arms.

These original residents reached their homes by sedan chairs, which were carried up and down the steep slope of Victoria Peak.  This limited development of the Peak until the opening of the Peak Tram funicular in 1888.  We might get to the top by travelling on one of the world's oldest and most famous funicular railways - the Peak Tram.  The tram rises to 396 metres (1,300 feet) above sea level. It is so steep that the buildings you pass look like they are leaning between 4 to 27 degrees 

The vistas of Victoria Peak have been further enhanced by the 2006 revitalisation of one of Hong Kong's most striking landmarks - "The Peak Tower" and "The Peak Galleria".  The tower, with its wok-like top, offers a vast array of shops and restaurants with a great view of the harbour, leisurely shopping and souvenir hunting. The tower incorporates the upper station of the Peak Tram, the funicular railway that brings passengers up from the St. John's Cathedral in Hong Kong's Central district.  The Peak Galleria incorporates the bus station used by the Hong Kong public buses and green minibuses on the Peak. The Peak is also accessible by taxi and private car via the circuitous Peak Road, or by walking up the steep Old Peak Road from near the Zoological Botanical Gardens.


Victoria Peak Tower

There are several restaurants on Victoria Peak, most of which are located in the two shopping centres - the Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria.  However, the Peak Lookout Restaurant is housed in an older and more traditional building which was originally a spacious house for engineers working on the Peak Tramway.  It was rebuilt in 1901 as a stop area for sedan chairs and was re-opened as a restaurant in 1947.

The Peak is also the summit of Hong Kong's property market.  At the peak of The Peak, properties were appraised at the highest prices in the world.  Most of the super-rich billionaires in Hong Kong live in residences in Island South or The Peak.  A house on The Peak recently sold for HK$1.8 billion ($13.7 billion). At $68,228 per square foot, it is the most expensive location in the world. 

Stanley (Chizhu) Market
Stanley, the town on the southeastern part of Hong Kong Island and east of Repulse Bay, is one of the famous attractions of Hong Kong.  In Mandarin Stanley is called '"chi-zhu" which literally means "bandit's post" or "red pillar".


Chizhu (Stanley) Market

The original Cantonese name of the village was believed to be based on a big tall cotton tree, often covered with bright red blossoms at the time, hence "red pillar" in the local Hakka language.  It was given an English name after Lord Stanley, 14th Earl of Derby who was a19th-century British Secretary of State for War and later Governor General of Canada. (The NHL's Stanley Cup was donated by Lord Stanley during his stay in Canada.) 

The Stanley Market is one of the most famous markets in Hong Kong with museums and historic monuments near by.

Repulse Bay
Repulse Bay is located on the south shore of Hong Kong Island, to the east of Deep Water Bay and to the west of Middle Bay, South Bay, and Deep Water Bay.  Middle Island is located off of Hong Kong Island between Repulse Bay and Deep Water Bay. 

In 1841, the bay was used as a base by pirates causing serious concern to foreign merchant ships trading with China. The pirates were subsequently repulsed by the British Fleet and hence the name Repulse Bay.  However, another theory holds that the bay was named after the British naval ship, HMS Repulse, which was stationed at the bay at one point in time in Hong Kong's British history.

In the 1910s, Repulse Bay was developed into a beach and the Repulse Bay Hotel was built in 1920.  To attract swimmers, a bus was run from central Hong Kong to Repulse Bay making it one of Hong Kong's oldest bus routes.  During the Battle of Hong Kong in World War II, Repulse Bay was an important strategic naval base.  The beach was later extended artificially and thus the sand closest to the shore is coarser than that further away.
Repulse Bay At Dusk

Until the early 1960s, residential buildings were quite restricted.  Three blocks of 6-storey luxury apartments were developed part way up the mountain overlooking Repulse Bay.  Blocks A and B had only two apartments per floor, complete with servants quarters.  Apartments in Block C are smaller.  For a long time, these were the only apartments allowed on the mountain.

Occupying all of the west side cliff above the beach was Eucliffe - a large historical castle with a swimming pool, greenhouse and tennis court - one of three castles owned by the millionaire, Eu Tong Sween.  Eucliffe was demolished to make way for a row of low-rise apartments. 

The Repulse Bay area is one of the most expensive in Hong Kong with real-estate prices only matched by those on The Peak.  In 2012, some townhouses reached a high of HK$50,000 ($70,000) per square foot. 

The Repulse Bay Hotel was demolished in 2 stages during the 1970s - 1980s and a boutique-type shopping mall was built to mimic some of the lost colonial architecture.

Jumbo Restaurant at Aberdeen Fishing Village



Aberdeen Fishing Village

Since the 19th century, Aberdeen has emerged as one of the most important fishing ports in Hong Kong.  The Aberdeen floating village is located in the harbour and contains about 600 junks housing an estimated 6,000 people.  The total population of boat dwellers in Hong Kong was estimated at 2,000 in 1841 150,000 in 1963 but declined to 40,000 in 1982.  The population of the floating village has decreased due to rapid fisheries development in nearby Guangdong Province and increased operating costs of the fishing industry in Hong Kong.  Instead of living on the boat permanently, the majority of the boat people only fish on the boat during the day. 

The people living on the boats are mainly Tanka, a group which arrived in Hong Kong around the 7th-9th century.  While sometimes referred to as "boat people", they are in fact boat dwellers and should not be confused with the unrelated Vietnamese refugees boat people who came to Hong Kong by boat in the 1970s. 

Aberdeen's role as a port emerged between the 14th and 17th centuries when sandalwood arrived in junks and was trans-shipped to larger boats for transport up the east coast to major cities in China. 

We'll be eating dim sum for lunch at the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, one of two floating seafood boats that are anchored in the Aberdeen Harbor.  We'll take a free ferryboat shuttle to reach the restaurant.


Jumbo Floating Restaurant

Visit to TSL Jewelry Factory Shop
One of the big Hong Kong chains, TSL (Tse Sui Luen) specializes in diamond jewelry and manufactures, retails, and exports its designs.  Although its contemporary designs use platinum settings, TSL also sells pure, bright, yellow-gold items targeted at Chinese customers.

Golden Bauhinia Square and The Hong Kong Conference Centre
The Golden Bauhinia Square is an open area in the North Wan Chai area of Hong Kong. The square was named after the giant statue of a golden Bauhinia blakeana flower.  The sculpture is situated outside the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre where the ceremonies for the handover of Hong Kong and the establishment of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region was held in July 1997.

The sculpture, a gilded flower bauhinia, stands 6 meters high. The major part is composed of a bauhinia on a base of red granite pillar on a pyramid.  The sculpture is deemed an important symbol for the Hong Kong people after the handover. On the second day of Chinese New Year and the National Day of the People's Republic of China, the square is lighted up by a fireworks show.


Golden Bauhinia Square

We next get some time to tour the Hong Kong Converence Centre


Hong Kong Conference Centre. 

We get to return to our hotel late in the afternoon.  Tomorrow we leave Hong Kong to fly back home via Chicago.  

The Itinerary - Day 21 - Hong Kong

11 October 2013, Friday

For the next two days, we'll be visiting Hong Kong.  On the third day, we'll be flying back home.  In the morning, we leave Macau and take the ferry across the Pearl River estuary to the island of Hong Kong.  For Friday afternoon, we get to explore Hong Kong on our own (perhaps a "Big Bus" tour), maybe walk the streets, or find something else to do.

For Saturday morning, we've signed up for the formal Hong Kong City tour which includes a boat trip to Hong Kong Island, a visit to the Stanley Market.  The afternoon is free to do as we please.  We'll have to search out some interesting restaurants for lunch and dinner.  A chance to experience some new Oriental cuisine, perhaps. 

The Districts Of Hong Kong
But first a bit of history.

Overview

Hong Kong is one of the two Special Administrative Regions of the People's Republic of China, the other being Macau.  It is situated on China's south coast and is almost surrounded by the Pearl River Delta and the South China Sea, making it a "peninsular" city.  It is known for its expansive skyline and deep natural harbour.  With a land mass of 1,100 square kilometres (426 square miles) and a population of 7 million people, Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated areas in the world.  Hong Kong's population is 94% ethnic Chinese and 6% from other groups.  Hong Kong's Cantonese-speaking majority originate mainly from neighbouring Canton province (now Guangdong).  Many of these residents fled from China to Hong Kong to escape wars and Communist rule from the 1930s and into the 1960s.  Here's an historical recap of the growth of Hong Kong.

  • 1842 - Hong Kong Island - Central, East, South Regions
  • 1860 - Kowloon Island
  • 1800 - Lantau Island & Outlying Islands
  • 1899 - New Territories

Hong Kong Waterfront

Hong Kong became a colony of the British Empire after the First Opium War (1839–1842) when Hong Kong Island was first ceded to Britain in perpetuity.  This was followed by the British leasing the Kowloon Peninsula in 1860 and the New Territories in 1898.  It was occupied by Japan during the Pacific War (1941–1945), after which the British resumed control until 1997, when China resumed sovereignty.  The region espoused minimum government in the economy during the colonial era.  This time period of free unterprise under British rule greatly influenced the current culture of Hong Kong.  It is often described as the place where  "East meets West".  Their education system used to follow the British system until reforms were implemented in 2009.

Under the principle of China's "one country, two systems", Hong Kong has a different political system from mainland China.  Hong Kong's independent judiciary functions under a common law framework.  Hong Kong Basic Law, its constitutional document, stipulates that Hong Kong shall have a "high degree of autonomy" in all matters except foreign relations and military defence.  The Basic Law governs its political system.  Although its government is based on a multi-party system, a small-circle of the electorate controls half of its legislature.  The head of the government, the Chief Executive of Hong Kong, is chosen by an Election Committee of 400 to 1,200 members.  This situation will change after the first 20 years under Chinese sovereignty - until 2017. 

Hong Kong Skyline

As one of the world's leading international financial centres, Hong Kong has a major capitalist-style economy that is characterised by low taxation and free trade.  Its currency, the Hong Kong dollar, is the eighth most traded currency in the world.  The lack of space has caused demand for denser construction.  As a result, the city has developed into a centre for modern architecture and is the world's most vertical city.

Hong Kong has one of the highest per capita incomes in the world.  The dense space has also led to a highly developed public transportation network with a rate exceeding 90% - the highest in the world.  Hong Kong has numerous high rankings in various aspects.  Its economic freedom, financial and economic competitiveness, quality of life, corruption perception and Human Development Index are all highly ranked.  According to estimates from both UN and WHO, Hong Kong had the longest life expectancy of any region in the world.  Hong Kong also has the highest average IQ score in 81 countries around the world.

Hong Kong - Nathan Road

The name "Hong Kong" is an approximate phonetic rendering of the pronunciation of the Cantonese or Hakka name meaning "fragrant harbour".  Before British control in 1842, the name referred to a small inlet between Aberdeen Island and the south side of Hong Kong Island  (now known as Aberdeen Harbour or "Little Hong Kong").  This was one of the first points of contact between British sailors and local fishermen.

Archaeological studies indicate that humans were present in Hong Kong's Chek Lap Kok area from 35,000 to 39,000 years ago, and in Sai Kung Peninsula from 6,000 years ago.  In 214 BC, Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China, conquered the Baiyue tribes in Jiaozhi (modern Liangguang region) and incorporated the territory into imperial China for the first time. 

The earliest recorded European visitor was Jorge Álvares, a Portuguese explorer who arrived in 1513.  After establishing settlements in the region, Portuguese merchants began trading in southern China.  At the same time, they invaded and built up military fortifications in Tuen Mun.  Military clashes between China and Portugal led to the expulsion of the Portuguese in the mid-16th century.  The Haijin order banned maritime activities, prevented contact with foreigners, and restricted maritime shipping.  In 1661–69, the territory was impacted by the Great Clearance ordered by Emperor Kangxi.  This resulted in the forced evacuation of the coastal areas of Guangdong with 16,000 persons being driven inland.  When the evacuation order was rescinded in 1669, 1,648 of these evacuees returned.  However, the area that is now Hong Kong had become a large wasteland.

Hong Kong - Star Ferry

In 1685, Kangxi became the first emperor to open limited trading with foreigners.  This started with the Canton territory.  He also imposed strict terms for trades such as requiring foreign traders to live in restricted areas, staying only for the trading seasons, banning firearms, and only making payments with silver.  The East India Company made their first venture to China in 1699.  The region's trade with British merchants developed rapidly soon after.  In 1711, the company established its first trading post in Canton.  By 1773, the British reached a landmark 1,000 chests of opium being imported into Canton with China consuming 2,000 chests annually by 1799.

In 1839 the refusal by Qing Dynasty authorities to import opium resulted in the First Opium War between China and Britain.  Hong Kong Island was occupied by British forces on 20 January 1841 and was initially ceded under the Convention of Chuenpee as part of a ceasefire agreement between Captain Charles Elliot and Governor Qishan.  However, the agreement was never ratified due to a dispute between high-ranking officials in both governments.  It wasn't until 29 August 1842 that the island was formally ceded in perpetuity to Britain under the Treaty of Nanking.  The British established a crown colony with the founding of Victoria City the following year.

Hong Kong - Wong Tai Sin Temple

In 1860 after China's defeat in the Second Opium War, the Kowloon Peninsula and Stonecutter's Island were ceded in perpetuity to Britain under the Convention of Peking.  In 1894 the deadly Third Pandemic of bubonic plague spread from China to Hong Kong resulting in an estimated 50,000–100,000 deaths.

In 1898 under the terms of the Convention for the Extension of Hong Kong Territory, Britain obtained a 99-year lease of Lantau Island and the adjacent northern lands, which became known as the New Territories.  This lease ended in 1997.  Hong Kong's territory has remained unchanged to the present.  During the first half of the 20th century, Hong Kong was a free port serving as a major merchant and naval port of the British Empire.  The British introduced an education system based on their own model  The local Chinese population had little contact with the European community of wealthy tai-pans as the latter settled near Victoria Peak.

Japan invaded Hong Kong on 8 December 1941 - four days after the bombing of Pearl Harbour.  The Battle of Hong Kong ended with British Anzac, and Canadian defenders surrendering control of the colony to Japan on 25 December.  During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong, civilians suffered widespread food shortages, rationing, and hyper-inflation due to the forced exchange of Hong Kong currency for Japannese military notes. Through a policy of enforced repatriation of the unemployed to the mainland throughout the period, and because of the scarcity of food, the population of Hong Kong dwindled from 1.6 million in 1941 to 600,000 in 1945 when the United Kingdom resumed control of the colony.

Hong Kong - Kowloon

On 1 July 1997 the sovereignty of Hong Kong was transferred from Britain to the Peoples Republic of  China officially ending 156 years of British colonial rule.

For the next two days, we're free to wander the streets of Hong Kong.  However, we've signed up for a guided tour.  What we'll see........ well....... we don't know.  But we'll soon see, eh!?

Hotel - Hong Kong l'Hotel Nina Tower


Hong Kong l'Hotel Nina

Tomorrow we take our tour of Hong Kong starting off with a trip to Victoria Peak...... or simply......"The Peak". 

The Itinerary - Day 20 - Zhongshan To Zhuhai And On To Macau

10 October 2013, Thursday

Today our journey is relatively short in terms of the territory covered - about 30 miles (50 km) from Zhongshan to Zuhai and on to the former Portuguese colony of Macau - all by motor coach.  Hong Kong is a short ferry ride across the water which we'll take tomorrow. 


Zhongshan to Zuhai And On To Macau With Hong Kong Across The Estuary

But first we stop in the city of Zuhai to take a tour of the city.

Zhuhai

Zhuhai was one of the original Special Economic Zones established by the Chinese government under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping in the 1980s.  It was through the SEZ's that China became the economic powerhouse that it is today.  Being located next door to Hong Kong, China was able to export its manufactured good to the rest of the world.  Zhuhai is also one of China's premier tourist destinations, being referred to as the Chinese Riviera.


The Beach In Zuhai

Located in the Pearl River Delta, Zhuhai borders Jiangmen to the northwest, Zhongshan to the north, and Macau to the south.  Due to its location near Hong Kong and Macao, its ports with excellent conditions, its overseas Chinese contributions, and especially the policy of the SEZ's, foreign investment, advanced technologies, and management methods stimulated the economic boom of the area.  As a result, transportation networks and accommodation services improved.  Diversified transportation links provide a wide range of ways to get there or to travel inside the city. 


Zuhai Panoramic View From Mount Jida


Its territory includes 146 islands and a coastline of 429 miles (690 kilometres).  The islands within the prefecture-level city of Zhuhai include a number of near-shore islands that are often connected to the mainland by bridges or causeways.  It also includes some islands further out in the Pearl River estuary or the the Wanshan Archipelago on the open South China Sea. Some of these latter islands are actually located closer to Hong Kong than to the Zhuhai mainland.

The outstanding geographic location of Zuhai, a wide range of supporting infrastructure, and a deep-water port serve as a major attraction for foreign investment which reached $10 billion in 2008.  This includes 19 of the the top 500 multi-nationals, including ExxonMobil, BP, Siemens, Carrefour and Matsushita.  Hong Kong is the largest foreign investor in Zhuhai accounting for 22% of total foreign investment in 2002.  Industrial development in Zhuhai focuses on 5 high-tech and heavy industries including electronics, computer software, biotechnology and pharmacy, machinery and equipment, as well as petrochemical industries.

Zhuhai supplied 70% of the world's printer ribbons, 60% of the after-market inkjet cartridges and 20% of third-party laser ink toner cartridges.  Their combined sales were worth more than $1.3 billion dollars or 10% of all the sales in the world.  Zhuhai owns a comprehensive supply chain and almost any of the raw materials needed by the printer consumables industry can be provided locally.

After lunch in Zuhai, we then travel on to Macau.  Before we check in to our hotel, we tour the City of Macau.

Macau City Tour

Macau (also spelled Macao) is one of the two special administrative regions of the People's Republic of China (PRC), the other being Hong Kong.  Macau lies on the western side of the Pearl River Delta across from Hong Kong to the east, bordered by Guangdong province to the north and facing the South China Sea to the east and south.  The territory's economy is heavily dependent on gambling and tourism, but also includes manufacturing.

A former Portuguese colony, Macau was administered by Portugal from the mid-16th century until 1999, when it was the last remaining European colony in Asia.  China gave Portugal the right to settle in Macau in exchange for clearing the area of pirates under strict Chinese administration.  Macau was the first European settlement in the Far East.  It became a Portuguese colony after the treaty signed by the Qing and Portuguese governments in 1887. It was also the last, when pursuant to an agreement signed by China and Portugal in 1987, Macau became the Macau Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China on 20 December 1999, ending over 400 years of Portuguese administration.  


St Paul's Jesuit Convent Macau - Destroyed By Fire In 1835.  Painted In 1854

Portuguese traders first settled in Macau in the 1550s.  In 1557, Macau was rented to Portugal by the Chinese empire as a trading Port.  The Portuguese administered the city under Chinese authority and sovereignty until 1887 when Macau became a colony of the Portugues empire.  Sovereignty over Macau was transferred back to China in 1999 under the Sino-Portuguese Joint Declaration.  The declaration states that Macau will operate with a high degree of autonomy for fifty years after the transfer - until 2049.    




Ruins Of St Paul's Jesuit Convent, Macau

Under the policy of "one country, two systems", China is responsible for the territory's defense and foreign affairs, while Macau maintains its own legal system, police force, monetary system, customs and immigration policy.  Macau participates in many international organizations and events that do not require members to possess national sovereignty.
 
Macau Skyline
 

According to The World Factbook, Macau has the second highest life expectancy in the world.  Macau is one of the very few regions in Asia with a "very high Human Development Index", ranking 23rd or 24th in the world in 2007 with Japan being the highest in Asia.  The other Asian countries/regions in the "very high HDI" category are South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore and Brunei.  (The Human Development Index is a composite statistic of life expectancy, education, and income indices used to rank countries into four tiers of human development. It was created by Pakistani economist Mahbub ul Haq and the Indian economist Amartya Sen in 1990.  It is published by the United Nations Human Development Program.) 
 
Macau Skyline


In recent years, Macau's economy has bloomed rapidly due to the opening of the gambling casinos.  Thousands of tourists flock to Macau each day, mainly from mainland China and neighbouring regions. As a result, the standard of living in Macau has grown significantly.  In many cases it is on a par with some European countries. The tourist industry has also diversified through promoting its historic sites, culture and cuisine.  
 
Macau Skyline


Macau's nominal GDP growth rate for 2010 and 2011 was a staggering 32.0% and 29.1% respectively. The average annual GDP growth rate over the last decade was 13.8%.  Macao is undoubtedly one of the fastest growing economies in the world.

Hotel Sheraton Macao Hotel Cotai Central 
If gambling is your thing, hang on to your hats!  You'll be staying on one of the world's largest gambling complexes.  This Sheraton has over 3,000 rooms.  And it's only one of several hotels in the complex!



Sheraton Macao Hotel Cotai Central

We're on our own for dinner tonight.  Tomorrow we take the ferry to Hong Kong and the final days of our adventure.


The Itinerary - Day 19 - Guilin to Guangzhou And On To Zhongshan

09 October 2013, Wednesday

We're going to start the day with a flight from Guilin to Guangzhou where we'll tour the Ancestral Temple of the Chen Family and then take the coach on to Zhongshan.  Here's what our route looks like.  About 1,900 km or1,200 miles.

Guilin To Guangzhou And On To Zhongshan

But first Guangzhou and the Chen Family Ancestral Temple.

Guangzhou
Guangzhou (known historically as Canton or less commonly as Kwangchow) is the capital and largest city of Guangdong province.  Located on the Pearl River about 75 miles (120 km) north-northwest of Hong Kong and north-northeast of Macau, Guangzhou is a key national transportation hub and trading port.  It is the third largest Chinese city and southern China's largest city with a population of 13 million.  The population of the entire Pearl River metropolitan area is about 40 million covering an area of 7,700 square miles (20,000 square kilometres). 

Panoramic View of Guangzhou

Guangzhou's earliest recorded name is Panyu derived from two nearby mountains known as Pan and Yu in ancient times.  Its recorded history begins with China's conquest of the area during the Qin Dynasty (221BC - 206 BC).  Panyu expanded when it became the capital of the Nanyue Kingdom.  (This included what is known as Vietnam).  Although "Guangzhou" replaced "Panyu" as the name of the walled city, "Panyu" was still the name of the surrounding area until the end of Qing Dynasty.  The Qing Dynasty was the last imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1644 to 1912 with a brief abortive restoration in 1917.  It was preceded by the Ming Dynasty and succeeded by the Republic of China. Today, Panyu is a district of Guangzhou. 

The Old Book of Tang described Guangzhou as an important port in the south of China with connections to the Middle East, Africa, and Europe.  Arab and Persian merchants raided and looted warehouses in Guangzhou (known to them as Khanfu or Sin-Kalan) in AD 758.  In  that period, direct routes connected the Middle East and China as part of the Silk Road.  Guangzhou was mentioned by various Muslim geographers such as Al-Masudi and Ibn Khordadbeh in the 9th and 10th centuries.  The Arab historian Abu Zayd as-Sirafi mentioned Guangzhou several times in his book "The Journey of as-Sirafi", providing a description of daily life, food, business dealings, and the justice system of the city. As-Sirafi also reported that, in 878 AD, followers of the Chinese rebel leader, Huang Chao, besieged Guangzhou and massacred a large number of foreign merchants residing there. The foreign merchants were Arab Muslims, Persians, Jews, and Christians.

Plan Of The City Of Canton - 1910

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Guangzhou by sea in 1514, establishing a monopoly on the external trade out of its harbour by 1517.  They were later expelled from their settlements in Guangzhou (Cantão in Portuguese).  Instead, they were granted use of Macau as a trading base in 1557.  They would keep a near-monopoly on foreign trade in the region until the arrival of the Dutch in the early 17th century.  It is believed that the romanisation "Canton" originated from the Portuguese "Cantão" which was the name adopted for the walled city by the Europeans. 

The Portuguese in Macau, the Spanish in Manila, Arabs from the Middle East and Muslims from India were already actively trading in the port by the 1690s when the French and English began frequenting the port through the "Canton System" - a monopoly of Chinese merchants established by the Emperor to collect taxes on traded goods.  Other European companies were soon to follow: the Ostend General India company in 1717; Dutch East India Company in 1729; the first Danish ship in 1731 followed by a Danish Asiatic Company ship in 1734; the Swedish East India Company in 1732 followed by an occasional Prussian and Trieste Company ship; the Americans in 1784; and the Australians in 1788.

By the middle of the 18th century, Guangzhou had emerged as one of the world's great trading ports under the Thirteen Factories, an area where trade with the Europeans was allowed, a distinction it maintained until the outbreak of the First Opium War in 1839 and the opening of other ports in China in 1842.  The trading privileges during this time period made Guangzhou one of the 3 largest cities in the world.  During the Opium War the British captured Canton on March 18, 1841. The Second Battle of Canton was fought in May 1841.

Thirteen Factories, Guangzhou (Canton) c1850

The plague epidemic – part of the Third Pandemic – reached Guangzhou in 1894 resulting in the death of 60,000 people in a few weeks.  In 1918, the city's urban council was established and "Guangzhou" became the official name of the city.  The Japanese occupied Guangzhou from October 21, 1938, to September 16, 1945 after a violent bombardment of the city.

Reforms under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping who came to power in the late 1970s, led to rapid economic growth due to the city's close proximity to Hong Kong and access to the Pearl River.  As labour costs increased in Hong Kong, manufacturers opened new plants in Guangzhou. As the largest city in one of China's wealthiest provinces, Guangzhou attracts farmers from the countryside looking for factory work.  Cantonese links to overseas Chinese and tax reforms of the 1990s have aided the city's rapid growth.

Guangzhou - Old & New

Ancestral Temple of the Chen Family
In the late Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1912), Chen Ruinan and Chen Zhaonan, Chinese-Americans who returned to Guangzhou, proposed to raise money from all the Chen clans to build a temple for the worship of their ancestors.  It also included a place for their clansman to study for the Imperial examinations which allowed them to enter the Chinese civil service.  The Chen Clan Academy was finished in 1894 with money donated by Chen families in 72 counties of Guangdong Province as well as some overseas family members. When the imperial examination system was abolished in 1905, the Chen Clan Academy was changed into an academic school of the Chens. In 1957, the Guangzhou City People's Committee approved the Chen Clan's Academy as a Guangzhou City historic site.  In 1959 the government introduced a folk arts and crafts gallery into the temple. Now it serves as the Guangdong Folk Art Museum.
 
The Chen Clan's Academy


Located at Zhongshan 7th Road, the Chen Clan Academy is a symmetrical complex of 19 buildings with nine halls and six courtyards.  Facing south, the complex is built on a north-south axis.  A large collection of southern China art pieces, wood carvings and pottery can be found in the structure.  The complex exemplifies traditional Chinese architecture and decoration and has influenced cultural and architectural developments worldwide.  It was added to the list of "Cultural Relics of National Importance under the Protection of the State" in 1988.

Zhongshan
Zhōngshān,  historically known as Xiangshan, meaning "Fragrant Mountain") in reference to the many flowers that grew in the mountains nearby, is named after Dr. Sun Yat-sen (1866–1925) who was also known as Sun Zhongshan.  Sun is considered to be the "Father of Modern China".  He was born in Cuiheng village in Nanlang Township in what was then Xiangshan County.  After his death in 1925, Xiangshan was renamed Zhongshan in his honor.  The main ethnic group in Zhongshan is Han, and the main language is Cantonese.

Hotel - Sheraton Zhongshan 

Hotel - Sheraton Zhongshan

Tomorrow we're off to  Zuhai where we'll enter the former Portuguese colony of Macau and a different part of our journey. 

The Itinerary - Day 18 - Guilin & The Elephant Trunk Hill

08 October 2013, Tuesday

From Yangshuo, we're going to return the short distance back to Guilin where we're going to visit the Elephant Trunk Hill.  Later on we'll get some free time to wander the city. 

Guilin
Established in 314 BC, Guilin is located on the west bank of the Li River in North Guanxi province.  Its name means "Forest of Sweet Osmanthus" due to the large number of fragrant Sweet Osmanthus trees located in the city. The city has long been renowned for its unique scenery of Karst topography and is one of China's most popular tourist destinations.  There are many scenic places within short traveling distance of Guilin, including Longsheng with its famous Longji rice terraces, the Lijiang River, a scene printed on the back of ¥20 bank notes

Separated from the center of China and the Yangtze River basin by the Nan Mountains, the area has always been distinct from the rest of China.  The Han empire first expanded into Guangxi in the 2nd century BC. The Ling Canal was cut around the time, allowing small boats to transit from the Yangtze to the south flowing Xi River via the Xiang River.
Guilin
 Trade grew along the canal and river routes. Guilin was founded as a trading post in the 1st century BC on the West bank of the Kuei River  During the Ming dynasty, a garrison was set up in Guilin and the surrounding area gradually settled with the development of farmland. The city had a population of over two million at the time of the Second World War, but was utterly destroyed during the war.  The population slowly recovered with post-war construction of several factories for the production of paper, chemicals and agricultural equipment.

Guangxi and Guilin are home to 12 different ethnic minorities besides the Han Chinese. Guangxi is an autonomous region for the Zhuang ethnic group, rather than a province.  Various other minorities, such as the Dong, are also found in the area.

Elephant Trunk Hill
Elephant Trunk Hill is the symbol of the city of Guilin.  It got its name because it looks like an elephant drinking water.  The round opening that would be under the elephant’s trunk is known as Water-Moon Cave because at night the reflection of the moon can be seen through the arch and it looks like it is under the water and floating on the surface of the water at the same time.  Elephant Trunk Hill and Water-Moon Cave are located at the confluence of the Taohua River and the Lijiang River.

Moon Mountain On The Li River



Free Time!
After our visit to Elephant Trunk Hill, we get some free time to wander the city and take in more sights.
Elephant Trunk Hill

Hotel - Guilin Lijiang Waterfall Hotel
Lijiang Waterfall Hotel In Guilin

Tomorrow we fly to from Guilin to Guangzhou and on to Zhongshan

The Itinerary - Day 17 - Yangshuo & The Li River

07 October 2013, Monday

Today will be a bit more relaxed (similar to the Three Gorges Cruise on the Yangtse River) as we spend the whole day in Yangshuo and on a trip in small boats (or maybe rafts!) on the Li River.

Li River Waterfalls

Yangshuo is ancient, over 1,000 years old and was established during the Jin Dynasty (265 AD-420 AD). Originally a major stop on the trail of many independent travellers, it is today a major stop for organized tours.  It is located 40 miles (65km) south of Guilin alongside the Li River where we can stroll alongside the river and see local fishermen catching fish with their cormorants.  The mountain scenery from the Li River can be seen on the 20 yuan Chinese banknote.

Li River Rafts

Today we get to take a boat tour taking in the views of green mountains as we float down the Li River in a tour boat is a wonderful way to kick back and see a part of China that is .

Moon Mountain On The Li River

Tomorrow, we go back to Guilin, visit the Elephant Trunk Hill and get some free time to explore downtown Guilin.   In the meantime, we stay another night in Yangshuo at the Jasper International Hotel. 

The Itinerary - Day 16 - Chongqing, The Panda Zoo, Guilin, & Yangshuo

06 October 2013, Sunday

Today is going to be a busy day after 4 days on the cruise ship steaming up the Yangtze River.  We disembark from the ship at Chongqing with a stop at the Panda Zoo, followed by a city tour.  We then fly from Chongqing to Guilin and take a bus to Yangshuo.  If we were travelling by bus, here's what our route would look like - about 1,000 km or 600 miles.

Map - Chongqing Guilin Yangshuo

You can see that we're slowly making our way down to Macau and Hong Kong.  However, I'm getting ahead of myself.  Our first stop is in Chongqing. 

Chongqing
Chongqing (formerly romanised as Chungking) is the fastest-growing urban centre on the planet.  Its population is already bigger than that of Peru or Iraq, with half a million more people arriving every year in search of a better life.  It is one of China's municipalities that reports directly to the national government rather than to a provincial government.  (The other three are Beijing, Shanghai and Tianjin, and the only such municipality not located on the coast.)  Besides the Han who form the majority of its total population of 28.8 million, numerous ethnic groups reside in Chongqing including Yi, Tibetan, Miao, Qiang, You and Tujia.

Since its founding 3,000 years ago around 450 BC, Chongqing has been called Jiangzhou, Yuzhou, and Gongzhou before getting its present name nearly 800 years ago.  Since the Qin Dynasty (221 BC-206 BC), many dynasties have set up administrative institutions that have endowed the city with brilliant cultures.  Perched beside the Yangtze, the "Golden River," Chongqing symbolizes Yangtze River civilizations and is the cradle of Bayu culture.  Today, it serves as the economic centre of the upstream Yangtze basin, being a major manufacturing centre and transportation hub.  With a population of 29 million, it is the largest of the 13 emerging megacities in China.

Chongqing was temporarily the capital of the Republic of China during World War II, after Nanjing was occupied by the Japanese. The capital was subsequently relocated back to Nanjing after the Japanese surrendered in 1945.  Neighbouring provinces are Hubei (east), Hunan (east), Guizhou (south), Sichuan (west), Shaanxi (north).  Located on the edge of the Yungui Plateau and surrounded by small green capped mountains, Chongqing City is intersected by the Jialing River and the upper reaches of the Yangtze.  Also known as the "Mountain City, Chongqing is surrounded by the Daba Shan mountains in the north, Wu Shan in the east, Wuling Shan in the southeast, and Dalou Mountain to the south.  Chongqing is known for its hot and humid weather, smog, and pollution.  


However, in recent months, Chonqing's reputation for organized crime and corruption has overshadowed its history and cultural significance in recent times with the name of Bo Xilai making newspaper headlines throughout the world.

Downtown Chongqing

But I digress. 

The city is the starting (or ending) point for the Yangtze River Cruise which explores the stunning scenery of the Three Gorges.  Other attractions include the Dazu Rock Carvings (valuable works of art carved during the Ninth Century), Gold Buddhist Mountain (a rich repository of diverse animals and plants) and Fishing Town (one of three ancient battlefields in China).  Ancient Ci Qi Kou village lures tourists to linger in its streets to buy handicraft souvenirs.  General Joseph W. Stilwell Museum, Three Gorges Museum, People's Assembly Hall and Wulong Karst are also worth a visit.  Chongqing is famous for its hot Sichuan cuisine and world-famous hotpot dishes. Street vendors as well as restaurants feature exciting spicy delicacies for the adventurers.

We're going to be taking a tour of the city.  What sights we'll be seeing....... well that remains to be seen.  But one place we will be visiting is the famous Panda Zoo.

The Chongqing (Panda) Zoo
Built in 1953, Chongqing Zoo occupies an area of 45 hectares, ranking as the largest urban zoo in China.  It is famous for various animals including more than 230 kinds of rare wild ones.  The highlight of zoo is the Panda House which covers about 2 hectares.  The zoo serves as both a reserve and a base for the breeding of giant pandas, lesser pandas, South China tigers, and other endangered species.  During recent years, the zoo has expanded and added a new Antelope Room, Elephants Room, Giraffes Room, Panda Room, Orangutans Room, and Avian Room to further protect endangered species.   The Tea Garden provides a place to relax and rest your feet after taking in the sights.

The Panda Room in Chongqing Zoo is a must-see site for visitors with over 1 billion visitors annually.  In order to preserve this valuable species, the Panda House is designed to emulate the natural environment and  living habits of giant panda.  Here, we can get close to watch the giant pandas and their offspring.

Chongqing Panda Zoo

Although the giant panda is a kind of bear, they are shy when in public.  Sometimes it's hard to see the giant panda, while, at other times, they may leisurely walk around in their rooms.  The best chance of seeing pandas is during feeding -- between 8:30 and 10:30am.  If the pandas aren't out, we can always ask the zoo warden if he'll feed them.


From the Chongqing Zoo, we next board a bus and travel down to the town of Yangshuo, famous for rock climbing and the Li River

Yangshuo
In the 1980s, many foreign backpackers were drawn here by the introduction of the country in the "Lonely Planet" travel guide, a book that boasts that the authors have visited every place in the book.  Yangshuo is now a relatively large tourist town that different from most typical Chinese towns.  It is relatively free from air and noise pollution, very clean by Chinese standards and doesn't usually suffer from massive traffic chaos.  It has wonderful restaurants and shops, an almost unlimited number of hotels and hostels, and is fairly developed. Yangshuo is well-known amongst travellers in Southern China, and is a major stop on the trail of many independent travellers. 

Yangshuo, As Seen From The Top Of The "TV" Hill

The main reason people stop in the town is to explore the local countryside by bike, try their hand on the world-class rock-climbing sites or take a bamboo raft down the river and view the famous scenes in the process.  Aside from the fact we'll be staying in Yangshuo for the evening, we'll be seeing the "Impression Sanjie Liu" ("Human's Masterpiece Performed With The Cooperation with the God") sound-and-light show.

Liu Sanjie" Sound-And-Light Opera
This is the world largest natural theater which utilizes the waters of the Li River as its stage with the twelve mist-shrouded hills and the heavens as its backdrop.  Mist, rain, moonlight, the hills, and their inverted reflections in the river become the ever-changing natural background.  The "auditorium" is housed on the natural islands of the river with the audience standing on the designed terraces surrounded by green plants. The sound equipment here can't be seen as it is "hidden" by the natural environment.  The valleys, the hills, the cool breeze, and the gurgling streams all contribute to the 3-dimensional sound effect. 
Liu Sanjie Sound-And-Light Opera

Day by day, the weather offers different scenes with the four seasons changing the performance according to the climate.  The performance is a new concept in opera using nature as an integral part of performance.  Hence the name - "Human's Masterpiece Performed With The Cooperation with the God").  It should be quite the performance.  

Hotel - Yangshuo Jasper International Hotel
Yangshuo Jasper International Hotel

Tomorrow, we get to spend the whole day in Yangshuo exploring the Li River, taking a boat trip on the Li River exploring the countryside.